Researchers have uncovered numerous hazardous chemicals in hair extensions, with some linked to cancer and hormone disruption. The findings highlight a significant health risk, particularly for Black women, who experts believe are disproportionately affected by these products. As awareness grows, calls for regulatory action from companies and government agencies are intensifying.
A study conducted by Dr. Elissia Franklin of the Silent Spring Institute in Massachusetts examined 43 hair extension products purchased online and from local shops. These products included both human hair and synthetic materials such as Kanekalon, Aquatex, Spetra, and Mastermix. The investigation revealed that 19 synthetic samples claimed to be flame retardant, while others advertised water or heat resistance. Alarmingly, all but two samples contained hazardous chemicals, with 17 chemicals associated with breast cancer found across 36 samples.
Dr. Franklin’s team utilized advanced machine learning techniques to identify nearly 900 chemical signatures and matched them against a chemical library. Ultimately, they discovered 169 different chemicals, including flame retardants, phthalates, and pesticides—substances known for their potential health risks. Among the most concerning findings were toxic organotins, commonly used as biocides and heavily regulated in the UK and European Union.
Dr. Franklin noted, “While prior reports have found some chemicals of concern in hair extensions, there’s still much we don’t know about their overall chemical make-up. We wanted to get a better picture of the extent of the problem.” This lack of transparency is a critical issue, as many companies do not disclose the chemicals used in their products.
The findings, published in the American Chemical Society journal Environment & Health, have prompted reactions from advocacy groups. A spokesperson for Level Up, a campaign group dedicated to raising awareness of these issues, stated, “This new research on the dangers of braiding hair only reinforces what Black women have been saying for years. We are being overexposed to cancer-causing endocrine disrupting chemicals.”
The spokesperson highlighted that over the past five years, Level Up has compiled evidence linking dangerous chemicals in hair relaxers and braiding hair to serious health issues, including cancer and kidney failure. They emphasized the need for regulators and corporations to take decisive action to ensure the safety of products used by Black women and their children.
Jacky van Driel-Nguene, a consultant trichologist based in the Netherlands and chief executive of Trichology Europe, echoed these concerns. She pointed out the significant lack of ingredient transparency in hair extension products, stating, “These materials often provide little or no information about chemical treatments or additives. This makes it difficult for professionals to properly advise clients and for consumers to make informed choices.”
As the conversation around the safety of hair products continues to evolve, the research raises pressing questions about consumer protection and health outcomes. Dr. Franklin’s study underscores the urgency for greater disclosure and stricter safety oversight in the beauty industry, aiming to safeguard the health of consumers who rely on these products for cultural expression and personal style.
In light of these alarming discoveries, stakeholders from various sectors are being urged to collaborate in improving safety standards, ensuring that beauty products do not compromise health in the pursuit of aesthetic appeal.
