The fashion brand Lemaire has redefined the traditional runway experience with its latest collection, titled mine eyes, presented in collaboration with choreographer Nathalie Béasse. This event, which took place in October 2023, merges the realms of fashion and theater, creating a captivating narrative that explores the essence of fabrics and movement.
Through a series of living tableaux, mine eyes transforms the runway into a theatrical stage where materials come to life. The collection showcases optical illusions, featuring lacquered denim that reflects the appearance of leather and crushed velvets that shimmer with metallic qualities. The designs are inspired by the surrealist visions of Roland Topor, merging structured Western aesthetics with the fluidity of Eastern silhouettes.
Exploring Texture and Movement
For the Fall/Winter 2026 collection, Lemaire emphasizes a poetic metamorphosis, where each piece tells a story through its texture and movement. Fabrics are chosen for their unique qualities, with crushed velvet and lacquered denim creating a striking visual contrast. Draping techniques serve as narrative elements, with asymmetrical folds and pleated slits adding layers of intrigue to the garments.
Accessories further enhance this surreal experience, featuring functional yet artistic designs. Key-shaped pendants cleverly conceal corkscrews, while playful motifs like seashells and starbursts enrich the overall silhouette. This fusion of practicality and artistry underscores Lemaire’s commitment to innovation in fashion.
Urban Inspirations and Cultural Fusion
The collection draws heavily from the imaginative world of Topor, whose distinctive style is reflected in the use of dry silk threads and textured reliefs. His black humor and whimsical aesthetic come to life through prints that capture meteorological phenomena, aimed at the modern nomad. This fusion of artistry and urban themes makes the collection resonate with contemporary audiences.
In contrast, the men’s collection grounds this ethereal vision with a blend of Western and Eastern influences. Traditional trench coats and mohair suits are reimagined with an “Eastern breeze,” particularly evident in the supple calfskin Mandarin jackets. The combination of sharp tailoring with comfortable domestic slippers and vibrant pops of color, such as neon amber and mint green, creates a harmonious balance between sophistication and casual comfort.
Lemaire’s mine eyes collection not only challenges conventional fashion norms but also invites viewers into a dreamlike world where clothing transcends mere function, embodying both artistic expression and wearable comfort. This innovative presentation sets a new standard for future fashion showcases, blurring the lines between runway and theatrical performance.
